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Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Dec 9 2013, 12:54 PM


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Hi 1942MB,

I´d recommend contacting "MAGURA direct" (contact data to be found on the magura homepage), as they are responsible for the american market and should be able to point you to a retailer or supplier in your area.

Cheers, Florian

QUOTE (1942MB @ Dec 8 2013, 10:47 PM) *
I have a 2009 Durin SL 100mm fork that I would like to make the upgrade from oil to grease bushings. The problem I have is that I live in California, USA and I'm having trouble locating all the parts necessary to perform this upgrade in my area. Also, there is no service center that I can find either. I would like to do the work myself. Can you assist me as where I can locate all the necessary supplies?

Thanks!

  Forum: Durin · Post Preview: #15545 · Replies: 4 · Views: 3.128

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Dec 2 2013, 02:19 PM


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Hi Mike,

the small red Pad-wear-adjuster is made for and should only be used to adjust for wear, not to regulate the contact point while pads are new or when the brake is initially installed. Regretfully we know that not every manufacturer keeps this in mind so your situation (adjustement-range used up while pads are still good) occurs frequently. Your only chance is to got back to installing the slave-cylinders properly and place them correctly so that without using the adjuster and using new pads your contact point and lever-throw is ok.
I´d recommend having a look at the installation videos provided on our homepage to see how it is done.

Cheers, Florian
QUOTE (Mike Derwent @ Nov 20 2013, 09:28 AM) *
Hello, I have an electric Kalkhoff bike which I have owned for three years. It came supplied with HS33 brakes which are working well, but the little red +/- control is hard over now and the levers need to be pulled right into the handlebars to be effective, so some further adjustment is necessary. Without going over the top in terms of tweaking and messing around, what is the standard basic procedure list for servicing these brakes? The pads are worn, but certainly have life left in them. Any advice or quick pointers to where documented simple instructions for novices or those just wanting to do the basic minimum service to keep this gear running as it should would be most appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Mike

  Forum: HS 33 · Post Preview: #15505 · Replies: 2 · Views: 8.858

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Feb 4 2013, 02:23 PM


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Hello am7,

to bleed your brake you need only one kit and both Versions will work. As it is less expensive and you probably will only bleed your brakes this once the Mini Service Kit (Magura Art.Nr. 0724491) should suffice. The bigger Pro-Kit is intended for mechanics who regularly work on our brakes.
The reason for the softening of your brakes is probably a small amount of air that got into the reservoir when the brakes where originally installed and the hoses shortened, this air can get into the system when the pads wear down and more oil from the reservoir is needed to adjust. Regretfully the only way to get this air back out of the system is to bleed the brake, but done properly this should solve the problem once and for all.

Cheers, Florian
QUOTE (am7 @ Feb 4 2013, 11:03 AM) *
Hello,
I have MT2 levers and Mt4 calipers. After just a couple of months the brakes are useless. Both levels reach the handlebar (front is better than rear). I have replaced the pads with little difference. Pumping the brakes also makes little to no difference.
No crashes with the bike and no leakage from the brake system. Magura says you don't need to bleed the system for several years which I believe could be true as I know someone who hasn't bled his brakes for 10 years now (not Magura though). I don't know what went wrong with mine, they worked great when new and got progressively worse and worse until I have no brakes at all. It appears I will need to bleed them. Never done this before and have no idea how to do it but at least it is explained in the manual so I will give it a shot.
My first problem is I don't know which of the two kits to get and what's the difference between them? Couldn't have they made a single kit so it would be less confusing or do I need both kits (expensive! just to bleed the brakes).
Thanks.

  Forum: MT2 · Post Preview: #14851 · Replies: 4 · Views: 4.467

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Jan 30 2013, 01:13 PM


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Hi airtee,

@ 1) there is no downside to using the original polyamid hose, the flex of the hose and the possibly more noticable effect on the longer rear hose on a tandem is so small that we didnt´t think it necessary to recommend steelflex-hoses

ergo @ 2) Magura steelflex hoses are not coated but you would not need them anyways

@ 3) cantilever mounts, as these studs are generally referred to have a fairly standard length and our HS rim brakes are constructed to fit these the same as standard mechanical brake systems (either v-brakes or Cantilevers) so you should be able to mount the brakes without any issues.

Cheers, Florian


QUOTE (airtee @ Jan 17 2013, 11:09 PM) *
I'm intended to mount Magura HS33 brakes on my tandem TREK T900 (actually I have ordinary V-brakes - see technical data sheet at http://www.trekbikes.com/be/nl/bikes/2005/archive/t900) and I'd like to know:
1) should it be better on this tandem to use the steelflex tubing instead of the standard polyamid hose?
2) if so, are the Magura steelflex tubes treated with a plastic coating to avoid damage at the frame?
3) are the fixed standard V-brake studs at the frame long enough to support the (maybe longer?) HS33?
Thanks in advance for information.

  Forum: HS 33 · Post Preview: #14845 · Replies: 1 · Views: 3.515

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Oct 25 2012, 07:31 AM


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QUOTE (Vetal @ Oct 15 2012, 06:53 AM) *
Hi all, could you tell me the differences between this three types of Durin.
Yes, there is different presense of suspension technologies (Albert, DLO2) in each, different weights. I`ve read about this in internet. But maybe somebody knows about other information. Such as durability, ease of maintenance and more...
I heared there is meister grease instead of oil in new forks. Does it reduce interval between maintenance? And what about performance in low temperatures (-25 C).

Hi Vetal,

essentially Durin Race and SL are identical, the only difference is the different compression cartridge which also affects weight (SL-unit weighs less). The Durin X is a cheaper and therefor heavier version of the same fork due to different materials and less machining on the internal parts, the parts defining wear and service intervals such as bushings, stanchions and seals are identical on all these models.
Fork Meister grease is used in all our forks since MY 2011 and even though service interval stays at appr. once per year this lubrication stays in the fork longer (oil gets pumped out over time) and reduces friction in comparison to oil. Performance at low temperatures is actually better with grease compared to oil.

Hope this helps,
Cheers Florian
  Forum: Durin · Post Preview: #13869 · Replies: 1 · Views: 1.934

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Jul 2 2012, 02:08 PM


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QUOTE (frub1964 @ Jul 1 2012, 06:17 PM) *
Can anyone advise which direction the front and rear rotors fit on 2004 julies as I cannot find any "arrows" on them as described in the manual. These are on Cannondale tandem 2004.

Hi there,

the laser-edged markings (diameter, direction etc.) should always be on the outside, facing away from the wheel. This way the "spokes" of the rotor are oriented counterclockwise.
You can find the mounting instruction for brake and rotor in the "download" section of the MAGURA homepage.
  Forum: Julie · Post Preview: #13459 · Replies: 2 · Views: 7.544

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Apr 16 2012, 03:38 PM


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Hi,

you can use the same basic bleeding equipment. One syringe with tube and adaptor on the caliper (as before), for the master just use a syringe without piston in it. Best have a look on the MAGURA homepage for our workshop-videos, procedure for bleeding the MT range is shown there.

Cheers, Florian
  Forum: MT4 · Post Preview: #13253 · Replies: 3 · Views: 2.230

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Apr 5 2012, 10:47 AM


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Hi Torsten,

regretfully the Rohloff rotor (that´s the one we currently supply with a 4 hole mount) will not fit these older Cannondale hubs, the circumference / radius of the mounting holes positions is bigger than with your hubs.
We did indeed offer a corresponding 4 hole rotor in the past when Cannondale still used these hubs, but as this was only up until 2003 we regretfully no longer stock any of these rotors.

Cheers Florian
  Forum: MT6 · Post Preview: #13243 · Replies: 1 · Views: 1.654

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Apr 3 2012, 07:14 AM


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Hi Steve,

both rotors work equally well with the MartaFR. Essentially you get slightly higher braking power and better cooling effect with the Ventidisc at the price of more weight. If you don´t heat you brakes up to much the Storm SL is a really light alternative to the rather heavy Ventidisc.

Cheers Florian
  Forum: Marta FR · Post Preview: #13235 · Replies: 1 · Views: 37.470

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Apr 2 2012, 12:28 PM


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QUOTE (TPVracing @ Apr 1 2012, 09:08 PM) *
Dear,

Our team owns some Magura Durin Race R100 2012 edition. We have few questions about the grease and maintenance:

1) We actually do not know which kind of grease is been used in the Durin 2012, but we have heard some comments about the called "Blood And Grease Type2 and Type5" compounds ¿?. Is that correct? Can be given some more information?

2) Which is the predicted lifetime and when it is reasonable that must be replaced?

3) Where can it be bought? In Spain or from your website?

Thanks in advance.

Hi,

1) The "suspension meister grease" will be available via the MAGURA dealer network as standard article soon. Blood Type 2 and Type 5 are oils that are used in the damping circuit (Type2) or were used as lubrication (Type 5) before the introduction of the new, grease based lubrication.

2) Average lifetime of the new lubrication is somewhat in excess of a race season. I changed the grease appr. once during season for the pro-riders but even that wasn´t absolutly necessary.

3) When it is available every MAGURA Dealer can order the grease just like any other spare part, oil etc.

Cheers Florian
  Forum: Durin · Post Preview: #13227 · Replies: 2 · Views: 2.441

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Mar 30 2012, 07:27 AM


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Hi Jackal,

which rotor sizes you can use depends on which calipers you have on your Marta. The 2007 model was available in three caliper versions:
short lower arm IS mount > 160mm rotor with IS forks, depending on exact frame dimensions could work with a 140mm rotor on the rear IS (but was not made for this size, so no definite fit)
long lower arm IS mount > 180mm rotor with IS forks, 160mm with IS frame mount
Postmount caliper > mounts directly to any PM (usually for a 160mm rotor, but 7" (Thor) and 8"(wotan, Fox 40) PM studs do exist, leading to 180 or 203mm direct mount dimensions)
Hope this will help, if you are uncertain which caliper you have post a photo so we can identify them.

Cheers, Florian
  Forum: Marta SL · Post Preview: #13221 · Replies: 2 · Views: 2.189

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Mar 29 2012, 03:34 PM


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Hi James,

it´s no problem to use your MT4´s with the older Julie rotors rotors. The friction ring is slightly wider than with the Storm rotors but that doesn´t impair function.

Cheers Florian
  Forum: MT4 · Post Preview: #13216 · Replies: 3 · Views: 2.230

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Mar 29 2012, 03:30 PM


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Hi James,

i would recommend trying to mobilise your pistons. Push back both pistons (pads installed to avoid damage to the piston itself) as far as possible, then fix one piston in position (holding it with the rotor or a flat piece of metal) and pump the other one out by actuating the lever several times. Push the extended piston back and repeat for the other side. Should one piston extend while you press back the other your brake is overfilled. If not, this "overextending" of the pistons should lubricate the seals from within the system and pad retraction will get back to what you are used to.
I´ll attach the MAGURA info-sheet on this process too.

Cheers, Florian
Attached File(s)
Attached File  Tech_Tipp_Mobilisieren_12_05_english.pdf ( 91.43K ) Number of downloads: 13
 
  Forum: Julie · Post Preview: #13215 · Replies: 1 · Views: 6.896

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Mar 29 2012, 08:14 AM


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QUOTE (Zymon @ Mar 29 2012, 12:10 AM) *
Right I'm off to morzine in aug and I bought my mates old but mint 99 gt lts dh off him for the trip. My hardtail cannondale ain't up to the job ;-)

Anyway the issue I have is the wrong caliper mount on the forks, they are boxxer 151's running on a floating 190mm ceramic disc . The gustav caliper is only running on part of the disc, the number on the bracket is 2682 , I have done a little look on here and I'm thinking I need the 0721-212 mount to bring the caliper in closer? Please say that the 2682 isn't a short code for the 0721-212 ....

My friend I got it off has used this bike for no longer than 20hrs in its life - he tried to chase the caliper mount down years ago but when gt were the uk importers for rock shox , at the time they assured him they would get the right part from magura but he was due to go to oz travelling and when he came back the rep who was supposed to be helping him out had moved on to another company and he got fobbed off.

Can anyone shed some light on my issue please??

Thanks in advance !

Hi Zymon,

the mount you need for the Gustav M (190mm rotor) on an older Boxxer model should definitely be the article number 0721 212 (the adaptor would be stamped with a number 5). The 2682 had article number 0721 210.
Regretfully MAGURA does no longer stock mounts for the GustavM, so your only chance ist to browse the internet or the parts-swapping-thread on our forum.

Cheers Florian
  Forum: Gustav M · Post Preview: #13212 · Replies: 2 · Views: 7.447

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Mar 27 2012, 07:30 AM


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Hi,

that is exactly what happens when you key in the serial number on our website. The number is checked against a list of the number-range that may have been affected by the recall-issue, so when the site says "ok" you can be sure that your fork is not in any danger. The list was left deliberately broad so there is a certain chance that an unaffected fork will show as "recall" cause we´d rather get a fork back to check ourselves than risc a dangerous product being ridden out there.
And you can be doubly safe because the photo of your front arc confirms that the casting is definitely "post-recall".

Cheers, Florian
  Forum: Durin · Post Preview: #13207 · Replies: 4 · Views: 2.620

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Mar 26 2012, 02:47 PM


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QUOTE (gdidier @ Mar 26 2012, 02:49 AM) *
Hello,

I have a rear Marta SL 2011 (140mm disc). Caliper is Post mount. My frame is IS mount at the rear.

Are there any adaptors available? Do I have to buy new IS calipers? Do I have to get rid of the 140mm disc?

Many thanks for your help!

Gaetan


Hi Gaetan,

regretfully there is no official MAGURA Adaptor for IS frame mounts in combination with 140mm rotors. The definition of the IS mount (measurements and angles) leaves a bit of leeway, especially for the angle between caliper and rotor, so there is no possibility to ensure that a certain adaptor fits all IS frames (IS was invented and designed before anyone thought about using 140mm rotors).
You could however try to use the QM11 adaptor (meant for IS forks with PM calipers and 160mm rotors) there is a good chance it will fit, just check that the overlap of pads and rotor is ok (pad surface should covered completely by the rotor)

Cheers, Florian
  Forum: Marta SL · Post Preview: #13204 · Replies: 1 · Views: 1.555

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Feb 22 2012, 10:39 AM


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Hi emerald,

as the serial number confirms this seems to be a 2010 fork but the date lasered on the crown is the assembly date of the fork and we begin to produce forks way before the actual calender year starts (e.g. in europe 2011 forks were available right after the eurobike 2010 and OE manufacturers receive their forks even earlier than that). The reason for the black crown could be that your fork is actually a OE model as this option (different colour of lowers vs. crown) is and was available to manufacturers, it was just not offered as an aftermarket option.
Concerning the recall of the very early Durins there is no reason to fear, the only forks that had to be recalled were manufactured in 2008 (model year `08 and `09) and have no laser edged serial number but instead a small red decal with the number on the right lower leg.
  Forum: Durin · Post Preview: #13050 · Replies: 3 · Views: 2.141

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Feb 22 2012, 10:27 AM


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Hi,

the type 5 lubrication oil is a special compound usually used for sliding machinery parts, wt is about SAE 50. As certain oils (depending mainly on additives) react differently with seals we recommend using only the original oil available via the MAGURA dealer network.
A possible reason for the higher pressure you need after your service could be that your fork was stickier before the service, either for lack of oil or the different thickness, thus the lighter oil has improved break off force and speed, but you will loose this oil faster than the thicker original so lubrication service interval is shorter than before.
  Forum: Wotan · Post Preview: #13049 · Replies: 1 · Views: 7.953

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Feb 22 2012, 10:19 AM


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Hi Old Man (no slight intended)

the thicker washers (with the grub screw to fix them in position) are a supplementary item that was made to accomodate some frames and forks where the cantilever studs are positioned in a way that the piston or pad would contact frame or fork when retracted. Usually you should be able to mount your brakes using only the thinner washers (one per canti stud) and should only use the thicker ones in case you need more distance between slave cylinder and fork/frame to mount the brake.
  Forum: HS 11 · Post Preview: #13048 · Replies: 1 · Views: 8.480

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Feb 22 2012, 10:11 AM


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Hi bob,

this question usually refers to postmount forks only as there is a possibility to have 6" Postmount (PM caliper mounted directly would fit 160mm rotor) or 7" as for example the MAGURA Thor forks (PM caliper mounted directly would fit 180mm rotor). As your fork has got an IS mount which is, opposed to PM, standardized there should be no need for an answer. The adapter you need, which is provided with the brake, will be IS (fork side) to PM (caliper side) and the exact model is determined only by rotor diameter.
  Forum: Julie hp · Post Preview: #13047 · Replies: 1 · Views: 8.639

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Feb 22 2012, 09:55 AM


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QUOTE (Seismic @ Jan 5 2012, 01:20 PM) *
I have purchased a set of MT8 brakes and simply wonder if it is possible to buy the two M4 female (internal thread) mounting bolts, which are used per brake lever (to mount the brake lever to the handle bar) - in black colored version? I have searched the net for these M4 female bolts in a black version everywhere, both in alu and Ti, but they are very difficult to find anywhere.



Advise would be much appreciated.

Thank you very much.

Hi Seismic,

these bolts, or rather nuts, are a non standard part compared to normal bolts and at the moment MAGURA does regretfully not provide any coloured versions of these parts.
  Forum: MT8 · Post Preview: #13046 · Replies: 1 · Views: 2.428

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Feb 22 2012, 09:51 AM


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QUOTE (DinTex @ Jan 29 2012, 07:32 AM) *
Guten Tag,

neu hier. Bin im richtigen Leben in den USA und daher mit Magura Produkten nicht ganz vertraut. Wuerde aber gerne wissen ob die Magura Thor Federgabel mit 650B Felge und Reifen genutzt werden kann (ist eine 26er Gabel).

Danke im voraus fuer eine gute Antwort.

Hi DinTex

eine offizielle Freigabe für 650B Laufräder gibt es derzeit noch nicht, aber wir experimentieren damit und die Ergebnisse sind viel versprechend. Bei entsprechendem Reifendurchmesser ist diese Laufradgröße kein Problem mit dem Thor 26" casting.
  Forum: Thor · Post Preview: #13045 · Replies: 1 · Views: 2.637

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Jan 20 2011, 08:57 PM


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Hi Kurtisk,
the problem you describe for your front brake (no pressure build-up when pulled slowly) is typical for a small damage in the main seal of the master cylinder perhaps created by a hard grain of sand or small stone that worked its way in. This seal is formed like a funnel so when you pull slowly oil will leak through this defect but when you pull quickly the pressure build up behind the seal fills the funnel and presses it against the cylinder-walls eliminating the problem. As it is not possible to change this seal yourself please send the brake to your service-center for repair.

Concerning your second set of brakes i´d say its a matter of bleeding as a softer or slower build up to pressure point when pads are worn generally indicates a low oil level. You can check this by pushing the pistons completely back, opening the reservoir while levers are horizontal and checking the oil level. Note that the reservoir should be completely filled when pistons are pushed back.
QUOTE (kurtisk @ Jan 2 2011, 03:17 AM) *
I have read the topic 'Lever problems - help, have a race in 5 days time!!, Major lever problems plus fade and rattle' which seems to describe my problem, but my problem is more simple.

I bled the front and back an both levers feel firm and rock hard with good braking and modulation. However, if I pull the front very slowly I can pull it all the way to the bar with no braking at all. Also, at anytime in the travel of the lever if I pull faster I will immediately get appropriate braking--even a few mm's from the bar. So, the brakes work great if pulled quickly, but the front fails completely if pulled slowly. In use, coasting up to a stopping point and slowly pulling the front brake will result in the lever pulling in with no braking until I start to pull it quickly--once it is up to pressure I can modulate.

Looking at the previous post, I can't identify any leaks even in the reservoir caps, braking is always perfect if pulled quickly. I am not sure if the master cylinder is broken of if I need to do a better job of bleeding. But if you walked up to my bike and pulled the levers you would 'that's a good bled'--or at least I would.

As a separate issue, I have another set of 2008 Marta SL's and I find my rear brake get spongy as the rear pads wear. They tend to get better during a ride. And new pads nearly restore their firmness. The bike is always stored right side up or hanging by the front wheel. Is this a bleed issue, a design quirk/flaw, user error, delusion?

  Forum: Marta · Post Preview: #10790 · Replies: 1 · Views: 2.640

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Jan 20 2011, 08:36 PM


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Hello,

your description sounds as if the rebound is broken, please send the fork to your service-center for repair/replacement, parts for the vidar are still available.
QUOTE (bennoboy @ Sep 11 2010, 10:48 AM) *
Hello,

My Vidar forks have started to rebound with tremendous force - feels like the front wheel is going to shoot off the stanchions. There's been no visible oil leeks and the compression feel fine. What can i do to resolve this please?

Help.... blink.gif

  Forum: Older MAGURA forks and rearshocks · Post Preview: #10789 · Replies: 1 · Views: 5.710

Florian Steinmet...
Posted on: Jan 20 2011, 08:33 PM


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Hi Reuben,
the (wiper-)seals of the later rond models (e.g. Asgard or Ronin) will fit your quake too.
QUOTE (suburbanreuben @ Dec 28 2010, 02:35 PM) *
Anyone?
Will the Phaeon/Asgard /Ronin seals fit? Or Marzocchi Bomber Z2 seals?
Ta,

  Forum: Older MAGURA forks and rearshocks · Post Preview: #10788 · Replies: 5 · Views: 7.913

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