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Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Mar 3 2016, 09:02 AM


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From: Bad Urach/Germany MAGURA Headquater
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Hi noonien,
unfortunatly we haven´t got any real drop bar levers left over. In the past we had the HS66 or HS77 levers, but These are no longer available since many years. You might still find some in the web.
But as you might have heard Rotor (rotorbike.com) introduced a hydraulic rim brake from the Rotor Uno groupset on last years Eurobike. They are using our Magura calipers and Magura hydraulic Technology. This might be an option for, at least with Magura Technolgy, but not directly from Magura.

Thanks
Stefan@magura
  Forum: HS 33 · Post Preview: #16631 · Replies: 3 · Views: 2.321

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Nov 18 2010, 08:43 AM


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Hi mtd,
10 years of use is really good (my HS mountan rim brake is now working for 14 years without problems, bleeding,....).

What you describe really sounds like big wear, as Vinay already mentioned. That movement of the bolt is way too big, if it´s 3mm. A few 10ths of a mm is acceptable. If you´ve got that big movement, than leaking is no wonder! Unfortunatly.

Basically you can assemble all actual disc brakes onto your frame. But at that time around 2000 Cannondale still had some strange disc mounts.
The rotor could be attached only with 4 bolts instead of the standard 6 bolts. But if the rotor is still fine, not worn, you can use it also with newer calipers. If it´s a 6 bolt rotor, then no problem. But hub dimension could be other than IS 2000. Normally the distance between the inner surface of the drop out of the frame and the surface, where the rotor is bolted to on the hub is 15.3mm. If this distance is bigger in your case, then you could use some spacer to get over that gap. If it´s smaller, then you might have a problem. Please also check the distance from the rotor towards the spokes. As old Louise only used one moving piston on the outside, the calliper is really slim towards the spokes. If the spokes just pass bearly, than there will be no chance to assemble actual calipers with double piston.
The distance of the caliper mount holes seems to be ok with 51mm, so you can assemble any actual caliper with the correspondent adaptor, also Julie.
Normally on IS2000 the surface of the drop out is in the same plane as the surface, where the calliper is attached to. On some Cannondale frames, this caliper mounting surface was placed further outside by approx 4mm. In this case you have to use additional washers (and your lucky if the distance drop out/rotor surface on hub was smaller than 15.3mm).

Hope this info helps you.

Happy trails
Stefan
  Forum: Louise · Post Preview: #10410 · Replies: 5 · Views: 4.171

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Oct 14 2010, 09:01 AM


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Hi Simon,
you operated the hour glass stud correctly. It must not be fully tightened, otherwise you wouldn´t have the possibility to adjust the tension of the QR lever. The mentioned 4,5Nm is the max torque you should use whith the QR lever closed. But generally this is mush less.
About mounting the "shims" (=bushings) and pivot bolts to the fork. As you discribe there is obviously too much paint on the mounts. I will check this with our quality department in order to have this fixed for the future. Normally there should be no extra work for you but just assembly.

Hope this helps you

Thanks
Stefan@magura
  Forum: MAGURA FIRM-tech · Post Preview: #10283 · Replies: 1 · Views: 8.004

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Oct 20 2009, 02:30 PM


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Hi Neil,
this is the correct spacer. It´s needed to prevent inner parts of the fork to collide (the rebound piston will crash otherwise into the compression piston). Don´t remove it.
Did you hear a sizzeling noise (air escaping) when opening the lower leg for spacer removal? If yes, it´s not the fault of the spacer for the reduced travel.
Please replace the spacer into its correct position and check the travel: compress the fork without air pressure and slide the o-ring up tho the dsut wipers. Pump up the fork according to the manual. Measure the distance wiper to o-ring. This must be 140mm wit a tolrance of a few millimeters. Correct?

Thanks

Stefan@magura
  Forum: Thor · Post Preview: #7749 · Replies: 7 · Views: 5.677

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Dec 12 2008, 03:32 PM


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Hi to all,
saw this thread only yet.

Our FCR forks need special "how to" when changing air pressure.
The reason is because there are two air chambers, main and negative, that are filled up with one valve. In order to get the correct matching air pressure from the main into the negative chamber, you´ll have to actuate the Remote lever or turn the black knob on the fork. Then both chambers connect and air pressure equals in both chambers. If you increase pressure without equalizing main and negative chamber, then the negative spring force will be to weak, you´ll hear a loud top out.
The negative air spring, when in the long travel, is supported by an additional top out elastomer. This is what you may notice. When in the short travel, only the air negaitve spring is active, the elastomer is not engaging.

Air pressure on the chart is a recommendation, not a must. It depends on riding style and rider likes.... You can run higher or lower pressure.

Rebound adjustment has a very wide range, from too slow to too fast (good shop floor performance), which are not really ridable.
I run the Thor (85kg/185lbs) in the medium rebound setting with 5-5.5bar/80-90psi and don´t feel top out and no dive! smile.gif

My suggestion: run the air pressure higher than recommende on thechart, so you get about 20% sag, have the rebound in a medium setting (about 5-7 klicks from closed).
Does it feel better?

Cheers
Stefan@magura
  Forum: Thor · Post Preview: #5903 · Replies: 8 · Views: 7.462

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Oct 1 2008, 04:10 PM


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Hi Matt,
by looking on your picture it seems you didn´t assemble/mount your Maxle correctly in the dropouts. ohmy.gif

Normally the Maxle axle is almost flush with the right drop out. On your picture it is still standing out about 1"/2,5cm on the ripped off drop out. With this it was not inserted at all with the other end in the left drop out, the thread of the axle not engaging in the drop out. As the left drop out couldn´t take the brakingforces induced to the hub, these forces had to be taken only by the right drop out (for what it is not designed for!), ripping it off and destroying the brake.

Please correct me if this theory is wrong!

How the Maxle should be mounted in your Wotan is well explained in our fork manual, as you should have received it with your fork or you can download at this page.

David from Magura UK will take care of you to find a good solution.

Thanks
  Forum: Wotan · Post Preview: #4811 · Replies: 4 · Views: 3.437

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: May 28 2008, 09:18 AM


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Hi to all,
in order to get more progression you can add oil to the air chamber.
Use our Suspension Blood Type 5, which is a heavy lubrication oil.
But this oil will make it´s way past the o-ring seal after a while, so the desired effect of more ramp up will get less again after certain time, with the added oil being in the lower leg.

Better tuning will be to use the longer 08 piston rod assembly, article number 0722365 (including piston, rod, negative spring, see also exploded view in the manual), which makes the air chamber smaller compared to the 07 version.
  Forum: Menja · Post Preview: #3965 · Replies: 18 · Views: 14.945

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Oct 31 2007, 10:07 AM


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Nada de palabrotas, warp! cool.gif
Es que no es que siempre intentamos ofrecer el mejor servicio? smile.gif
  Forum: Odur · Post Preview: #2860 · Replies: 10 · Views: 7.906

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Oct 30 2007, 10:45 AM


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disassembling the air side further is rather easy (remove air before and cycle the stanchion to get the negative chamber also empty):
clamp the lower part, which is threaded into the stanchion (the one with the 2 oposing holes) into the crown. With this you have more contact surface for grabbing the rest of the stanchion and simply unthread it (turn anticlockwise). Pull out the lower part with the air sleeve and the piston. Separate also piston from air sleeve by pushing the piston from the lower side through the sleeve. Now you can check the surfaces and o-rings. Assembly is done viceversa. Use only littel high quality thin grease, best our Suspension Grease.
  Forum: Older MAGURA forks and rearshocks · Post Preview: #2851 · Replies: 9 · Views: 10.153

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Oct 30 2007, 10:07 AM


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Hola Mariano,
lo mejor, tal como Martin ya advirtío, es enviar la horquilla a nuestro SAT de Barcelona.
Aqui la dirección:

Bicisport
C. Piferrer 107
08016 Barcelona

Jordi, que es el jefe alli, ya estará instruido por mi en cuanto tu horquilla llegue y en caso de duda me llamará.
La razón por la que debes enviar la horquilla es que por las explicaciones es muy dificil decir cual es la causa de los ruidos de tu Odur. Asi la solución será perfecta!

Gracias y saludos

Stefan@magura/Alemania


Just for the english speakers: I recommended Mariano again to send his fork to our spanish Service Center, as the identification of the cause for the noise is not possible by e-mail. The Service Center will clear it with me directly, so solution is direct.
  Forum: Odur · Post Preview: #2850 · Replies: 10 · Views: 7.906

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Oct 23 2007, 12:05 PM


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Hi dropadrop,
we´ve been riding all of our froks, also Wotan, already last winter and the winter before with temperatures well below freezing point. They worked fine, although we had to open rebound a few clicks due to higher viscosity of the damping oil at lower temperatures (but that is common on all forks, not an excuse!).

Try opening rebound setting a few clicks on lower temperatures. That should help!

Cheers
  Forum: Wotan · Post Preview: #2812 · Replies: 34 · Views: 21.804

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Oct 18 2007, 01:37 PM


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Two things you should check:
no scratches in negative chamber, nor on the piston rod nor in the cylinder (otherwise air could escape from the negative chamber into the main chamber, the fork would extend slightly, it would topout, but the fork would not loose air externally!). If it is damaged, then both piston rod and cylinder have to be replaced.
is there a small top out bumber (either transparent silicone or black rubber) on the rebound piston rod just below the rebound piston. If not, it has to be installed.

On either cases please contact one of our Service Centers. They'll help you. You could give them also my infos out of this thread.
  Forum: Older MAGURA forks and rearshocks · Post Preview: #2793 · Replies: 7 · Views: 6.837

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Oct 15 2007, 02:42 PM


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Hi hovdeboj,
topping out can have several causes:
  • negative chamber not filled when adding air (see also manual and other threads)
  • oil volume on the damper side too low, so rebound piston is out of oil on the last bit of travel not being able to slow down the movement. Oil volume has to be measured very acurate: too much oil and the fork can not make all of its travel. too little oil--> missing damping
  • leaking negative air chamber due to damaged main o-ring on piston or damaged cylinder surfaces.

Check these points

Hope this helps
  Forum: Older MAGURA forks and rearshocks · Post Preview: #2781 · Replies: 7 · Views: 6.837

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Oct 5 2007, 02:41 PM


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Hi dropadrop,
from all I have read in this thread (sorry for the late answer, but now in the year it´s bicycle show time) it seems, your fork is working as it should work.
You describe it as buttery smooth when AS is on OFF. It´s hard when activated on ON and you feel a difference in between the smallest and biggest setting (i.e. weakest and hardest preload of the spring). Your description of the still hard low-setting of the ON-Albert Select might be that your are very sensitve and feel it as hard. We have desinged it to work for a wide adjustment range and rider weight.
There are other forks on the market, which only have platform, which can not be deactivated. They are either smooth, but bobbing when pedaling, or they have platform and dont bob, but are very harsh. But that is common to all platform systems.
The big advantage of our Albert Select system is, that you yourself can Select, whether you want a buttery smooth fork or a platform just by switching the blue dial!!

My last suggestion: If you have the chance to find another one with a Albert Select fork (either end consumer or distributor with Wotan or Laurin), compare it with your setting. They should be equal.

Best regards
  Forum: Wotan · Post Preview: #2768 · Replies: 21 · Views: 16.105

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Aug 17 2007, 02:17 PM


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Hi to all,
some general info on Albert Select.
In the OFF mode the oil flows through the normal compression valves.
In the ON mode the normal compression valves are closed and the oil has to pass a coil spring loaded plug.
The force required to pass/open this plug is determined by the preload of the coil spring. Preload can be adjusted in a certain range with the golden knob turning "+" or "-". But general range is set by the spring factor "C", which you can not change.
Changing oil viscosity will change the complete damping properties of the fork, not only in compression when "OFF", but also the rebound. It will not change the behavior in the low AS setting when "ON", as this is determined by the spring preload (as Warp already mentioned! rolleyes.gif )

The graph about the different compression systems including AS is not exact, it´s only to show the differences in between the systems. Don´t go by how flat/steep/degressive the curves are! cool.gif

But what strikes me is the fact that you. dropadrop, discribe the low AS setting as still very hard. I weigh 82 kg and with about 5 bar pressure I run AS about 6 klicks closed. It doesn´t bob when seated, but might bob by out of the saddle sprinting, depending on how I pound. But still aprosrbing bumbs without big force!
Strange!?!?
  Forum: Wotan · Post Preview: #2560 · Replies: 21 · Views: 16.105

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Jul 30 2007, 04:28 PM


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Hi catkiller,
unfortunatly the cables used on our 07 remote levers are not all standard. Well the cable is, but not the nipple, where it hangs into the lever. Normal shift cables have around 4mm diameter at the nipple, whereas the remotecable only has 3mm.
We´ve got this cable as a replacement part, Magura article number 0722510.
But you can take any other shift cable. Instead of using the nipple in the lever to avoid the cable from slipping through, you can also clamp it with the small 1.5mm allen hexin the blue lever. That should help!
  Forum: Laurin · Post Preview: #2452 · Replies: 5 · Views: 8.203

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Jul 20 2007, 08:50 AM


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Hi ginge,
the rim brake system is nowadays still the same as your Raceline D´s, hydraulicwise!
So all actual hose fittings are compatible.
For bleeding look into the manual (the one you still should have wink.gif or just download the 2000 manual for the HS33 or any other rim brake manual from the download section).
What you need for sure is a new tubing/line for rimbrakes/Julie and olives and some oil with the correspondent hardware for bleeding, all included in the rim brake bleeding kit .
  Forum: Other questions about MAGURA · Post Preview: #2365 · Replies: 3 · Views: 4.485

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Jul 16 2007, 02:27 PM


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Hi Trailsguy,
Torx bolts are used, because you can transfer higher tightening torques compared to comparable allen hex sizes without damaging the head. Or with the same comparable size with lower profile/hight (see the rotor bolts: wich disc brake brand is still using allen bolts for rotors that are much more likely to damage???)
A good tool shop should have these keys in stock.
By the way: the Torx T7 key is included in the disc brake service kit (Magura article# 0721294) or separtly available as single tool (Magura article# 0720847)!! The most versatile is the foldable MAGURA tool (Magura article# 0130112), that includes also the TorxT7 and T25, as well as the bit box (Magura article# 0130113).
All these accessories are in stock and can be ordered by your dealer.
Hope this helps!
  Forum: Louise · Post Preview: #2331 · Replies: 1 · Views: 2.341

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Jul 16 2007, 01:14 PM


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Hi,
the white lowerlegs were sold out (such a big demand!!).
But we´ll get next week new ones. So your fork should be at your dealer in about 2 to 3 weeks, might be earlier.
  Forum: Menja · Post Preview: #2330 · Replies: 1 · Views: 2.345

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Jul 12 2007, 03:28 PM


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very important!!!
A fork damaged like this is not recommended for using with a new crown. The stanchions can also be damaged!! Have a professional check the fork before buying anything!!


Cheers
  Forum: Older MAGURA forks and rearshocks · Post Preview: #2304 · Replies: 7 · Views: 4.707

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Jul 12 2007, 03:21 PM


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It might work, but we have not tried it, and we will not, as we haven´t got this combination in our range.
You can do it but lossing your warranty!


Cheers
  Forum: Louise FR · Post Preview: #2303 · Replies: 1 · Views: 2.269

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Jul 12 2007, 03:14 PM


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One additional comment:
Torx bolts are used, because you can transfer higher tightening torques compared to comparable allen hex sizes without damaging the head. Or with the same comparable size with lower profile/hight (see the rotor bolts: wich disc brake brand is still using allen bolts for rotors that are much more likely to damage???)
A good tool shop should have these keys in stock.
By the way: the Torx T7 key is included in the disc brake service kit 0721294.

Cheers
  Forum: Marta SL · Post Preview: #2302 · Replies: 2 · Views: 2.260

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Jun 13 2007, 08:24 AM


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Hi Anvar,
the rack you have seen by Velotraum was assembled under their own risk.
MAGURA has not aproved yet any rack to be mounted to the fork.
But so far I haven´t seen any failures on our forks with racks, or at least they were not accepted as warranty cases.
You can try putting them onto your fork on your own risk.
Sorry for not being able to give you a better answer.


Thanks
  Forum: Laurin · Post Preview: #2098 · Replies: 4 · Views: 3.780

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Jun 12 2007, 03:17 PM


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thanks for the laurels! smile.gif
And nice you posted it! smile.gif smile.gif
  Forum: Menja · Post Preview: #2087 · Replies: 2 · Views: 2.627

Stefan Pahl@magu...
Posted on: Jun 11 2007, 01:28 PM


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Hi Licksan,
have your X-Verts got IS style brake tabs with a distance between both holes of 22mm. Then you need Gustav M adaptor 0720939 in combination with a 190mm rotor.
If it´s PM mount (I guess 6" style) then use adaptor 13 0721645 for 210mm rotor.
  Forum: Gustav M · Post Preview: #2076 · Replies: 3 · Views: 4.137

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