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Lever Clamp Bolts
Racemechanic
post Apr 2 2012, 08:06 PM
Post #21


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Hi

It possibly sounds like a bleeding problem.

You have to make sure that the caliper PM tabs are directly above one another (as if they were fitted to a fork)

This ensures that the air is only at the top of the caliper.

Make sure that the master cylinder is 15 degrees above horizontal.

If you have any further problems, you need to consult the Service Centre for your country.

Cheers
Mike


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Racemechanic
post Apr 2 2012, 08:09 PM
Post #22


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Hi s3n8

I have passed your comments onto Magura.

Please be aware that the brake has been designed to offer maximum performance with minimal weight.

From experience I would suggest getting the best quality Torx tool you can. I would also recommend that you invest in a Torque wrench if you haven't already done so.

Thanks
Mike


--------------------
Racemechanic.co.uk
The UK's Authorised Magura Service Centre

sales@maguraspares.com

For all trade enquiries: trade@maguraspares.com

www.maguraspares.com - for all your Magura spare parts
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zscsoka
post Apr 2 2012, 09:31 PM
Post #23


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Hi Mike,

Thanks for your suggestions. Previously, I did the process like you described, the only difference was that, the hose was fitted to the bike, probably that was the reason to the problem.
I have just finished with the bleeding, now it seems everything OK (I removed the brake from the bike and tried bleeding that way). I used a bike stand where I fitted an old MTB handlebar onto and put the master cylinder to it in ~15 degrees above horizontal. The PM mounts of the caliper was in vertical position and the hose was also in an almost vertical position, avoiding bubbles to be "hidden" in the hose. I did the bleeding process extremely carefully, so we will see.
Well, hopefully I won't need to contact with my local Magura Service Centre because I don't know whether we still have one in Hungary or not. smile.gif

Anyway, I have to mention that, I really like the support that you do for helping us on the Internet, it's really helpful. Thanks a lot!

Best Regards,
Zsolt

This post has been edited by zscsoka: Apr 2 2012, 09:33 PM
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s3n8
post Apr 3 2012, 01:27 PM
Post #24


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QUOTE (Racemechanic @ Apr 2 2012, 03:09 PM) *
Hi s3n8

I have passed your comments onto Magura.

Please be aware that the brake has been designed to offer maximum performance with minimal weight.

From experience I would suggest getting the best quality Torx tool you can. I would also recommend that you invest in a Torque wrench if you haven't already done so.

Thanks
Mike


I understand that the lightweight metal nuts were chosen to save weight. Your other suggestion seems to hint that I did something wrong. I assure you that the torx bit I used was brand new, and high quality. I also assure you that I used a torque wrench to tighten them. I have no problem with lightweight parts, my problem is that these parts in particular go too far, and save negligible weight at the expense of durability.

I was LOOSENING the nuts with the lever in my hand, with a brand new tool. The torx head did not strip as others have experienced, the last 2 - 3 threads stripped (nearly). When I had both nuts backed off to release the clamp and seat it on my bars, I had little round slivers of metal shavings all over in my hands. This was not a case of over-torquing, all of the damage resulted from loosening the nuts.

The really terrible thing is that since these are not standard parts, the only source will be from Magura, and are expensive and unreliable junk. I would be glad to go to the hardware store and replace them with quality stainless parts and sacrifice a few fractions of a gram, for the piece of mind that knowing my brand new brakes will last more than one application. But I can't. And this is disappointing.

This post has been edited by s3n8: Apr 3 2012, 01:28 PM
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Racemechanic
post Apr 4 2012, 04:43 PM
Post #25


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Hi s3n8

At no point did I suggest you did anything incorrectly. I was merely making a suggestion that may have been of use to you & other Magura forum users.

You have to appreciate that we deal with a lot of people & maybe not all of them are a studious as yourself for making sure they have the correct equipment.

In fact, I have had one consumer who has tried to undo these bolts with an Allen wrench????!!!!!

I think you are a little hasty in branding the shroud nuts from Magura as 'junk'. I have not had a problem with any I have fitted for either our race team bikes or customers.

As I mentioned before I have passed your comments back to Magura.

With kindest regards
Mike


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Racemechanic.co.uk
The UK's Authorised Magura Service Centre

sales@maguraspares.com

For all trade enquiries: trade@maguraspares.com

www.maguraspares.com - for all your Magura spare parts
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zscsoka
post Apr 17 2012, 08:48 PM
Post #26


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I'm so sorry to write so bad news but it seems I definitely need to contact with my local Magura service center (Hungary, Mali Kft.). sad.gif
I did the bleeding process to my rear brake fifth time yesterday night. Fifth time was, I felt everything fine, pressure point was OK, etc. Today morning, I wanted to go out to my local trails and after some hundreds of meters (!) the lever was getting closer and closer to the handlebar again... After one km the brake have been useless...

Again,
  1. I did the bleeding process according to the menual and to the Magura MT brakes bleeding video
  2. My front brake is also an MT4, cable cutted by me, bleeded by me, works perfectly (!)
  3. I also have experience with bleeding other manufacturer's brakes and I did bleeding for example for my Magura Louise BATs, these work superb
  4. I always use torque wrench everywhere and no fastening issue so far, for years now - I hardly can imagine I did something wrong with fastening things wrongly...

Nevertheless, every time when I start bleeding I notice a lot of air in the system. I don't have a clue, how can the air appear in the system after using the brake only some hundreds of meters... sad.gif

This post has been edited by zscsoka: Apr 18 2012, 07:28 AM
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